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This is a comprehensive update from Shamick. Someone who has worked
tirelessly for no other reason then the fact he wants to make one
of the worlds greatest playgrounds safe for all the players out
there. If you can, help and support him...
Thanks Shamick, we all owe you one!
There are 7 major walls in Phi Phi, all equipped with glue-in bolts.
Some of the best easier grade multi-pitch climbs in Thailand are
to be found here, most of which are done over a mesmerizing blue
sea. For a beginner, Tonsai Tower on it’s own offers about 20 routes
grade 5 to 6b+ all in a row. All glue-in bolts. All ring anchors.
Most guidebooks seem to bypass this fantastic climbing area. What
follows is our attempt to fill in their blanks. This is a supplement
only. You should have a guide book with topos.
Climbing on Phi Phi was started in the late 80’s mostly by Dutch
and French expeditions, by the mid 90s climbing practically eased
to exist here due to the well-known problem of bolt corrosion. Yet
Phi Phi offers some of the best walls in Thailand with walls of
steep limestone overlooking pristine beaches. The following update
is to put an end to all the rumors that still persist two years
after the tsunami.
All rumors aside, Phi Phi island offers climbing with no crowds,
(once outside of touristy area) good rebolted routes and beautiful
settings over a lush tropical seascape. It is just someplace you
must experiance.
Drinking Wall
A steep hike but worth it. Karem has placed signs along the main
path following the beach. You can see this wall when facing Tonsai
tower and looking right and high up into the jungle. Started rebolting
this fantastic wall in 2000. At first we used stainless steel staples
and white glue. By April 2005, on the left side of the wall we used
titanium staples/ red glue. The only route here not
rebolted is Jun-pi-pi (7a+), the far left climb around the corner.
This is a must do wall. Anything from grades 5 to 7c. The wall
is in shade after 11am. All routes here are excellent. During rainy
season watch out for snakes.
Ozapft ( 6b) has potentially bad falls if you hit the stalactite.
The 7c on the left still bit dirty at the bottom.
The top part of Luis Trinker ( 6c) is a bit run out but a must do………
Softdrink (6c+) needs new anchor slings and new threads. It's pumpy
at the beginning and balancy on top.
Tonsai Tower
Located at end of Tonsay beach. Look for a steep trail behind a
huge tree touching the water. This wall offers close to 25 routes
graded from 5 to 7a for single and multi-pitch climbs. This is the
only climbing area in Thailand with such a fantastic concentration
of easy climbs. This wall is a must. Our present project here is
installing titanium anchors throughout the crag.
A Word of warning:
Some of the multi pitch climbing here is steep and unless you know
how to back-clip on rappel you can easily get stuck dangling way
into the dark. On PP there are few climbers and the climbing shops
do not have the expertise to help you out. You are on your own here
so take care. In January again, a party got into bad trouble.
Ko Phi Phi Leh
Ao Pilay Wall
20 min by boat from pier at Koh Phi Phi Don. Located in a small
bay 10 minutes left of Viking bird nest cave, this wall is located
over a small beach on the right side as you go in. This area is
in the shade after 12pm. At low tide watch out for sea urchins.
At very high tide a big part of the beach is under water. 6a to
7a+ routes.
The 35m ‘4beers of singha’ (6a+) is the most spectacular route.
On the left side of the beach there is a right facing corner with
a huge roof called ‘Black tip shark’ (6c).
Warning: Left of this climb is the only route in the area (‘Phi
Phi trip 6c’) which has not been rebolted (dangerous expansion bolt).
Falcon Mama 6A+ was rebolted with titanium and stainless steel anchor
rings by Karem. This is actually a 30 meter route.
Warning: 200 metres into the bay on the right side you will find
two dangerous routes with expansion bolts- Calypso (7b) and Le Sourire
Des Crabes (7a+).
Most rebolting took place in 2001-2003 by Karem, Kent, David, Magnus
and Shamick. Stainless steel and titanium glue-ins and ring-anchors.
North Face wall
This climbing wall is on the predominant vertical wall on the right
side of Phi Phi Leh facing north-west. There are a few multipitch
routes here that are badly in need of rebolting. Our efforts in
2002 to rebolt ‘The French Route’ (6c) has been shut down due to
theft of our rebolting gear that year by some shit wannabe's.
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